Didesain oleh Jennifer Anderson
Memperkenalkan rumah anjing masa depan, ukuran lengkap, sistem knockdown dan bidang datar. Rumah anjing ini kuat dan cukup menarik untuk diapply sebagai rumah tetap baik di dalam ruang maupun di luar ruangan, dan rumah anjing ini cukup ringan untuk dibawa ketika dalam perjalan camping or pesta tidur. Finisihing rumah anjing ini termasuk di dalamnya pengerjaan cat magnet, sehingga anda dapat mendesain rumah anjing anda dengan bermacam-macam dekorasi magnet. Dan ketika rumah yang dibutuhkan untuk ukuran anjing kecil seperti anjing pug, anda dapat dengan mudah memodifikasinya untuk menyesuaikan dengan rumah anda sendiri jika anda juga memiliki ukuran rumah yang kecil.
MATERIAL YANG DIGUNAKAN
• ¹⁄2 ” Baltic birch, apple, atau hardwood plywood lainnya (sesuai gambar)
• Lem ePoxy
• Delapan belas baut ulir 4″ (diameter luar) stainless steel beserta soket head yang sesuai (lihat step 9)
• Cat pernis Spray (untuk interior rumah)
• Cat magnet
• Cat eksterior (untuk lapisan atas di atas cat magnet)
• Magnet dekoratif (sesuai keinginan)
• Gergaji bundar atau gergaji meja
• Penggaris siku
• Kompas buatan sendiri
• Bor dengan: •
#6 kombinasi bit pilot-countersink
³⁄16″ straight bit (harus sedikit lebih kecil dari threaded in- sert)
¹⁄2 “mata lurus
• File kayu (opsional)
• Amplas (hingga 400 grit)
• Perute dengan:
¹⁄2 “mata lurus
¹⁄4″ bit pembulatan
• Klem batang atau tali
• Wol baja (jika diperlukan untuk pernis)
• Rol cat
• Kunci pas Allen (untuk sekrup kepala soket)
1. Cut the bottom, front, and back panels.
Lay out the cuts for the bottom, front, and back pieces along the factory edges of the ¹⁄2″ plywood, being sure to take into account the saw’s kerf (width of the material removed by the blade), as shown in the cutting diagram. Make the cuts with a circular saw and straightedge guide or a table saw to ensure straight cuts. For convenience, you can rip one long piece at 16¹⁄2″, then crosscut the three pieces from there.
to draw a line from the side marks to the top centerpoint.Place the front panel (with the marked face up) on top of the back panel, making sure all edges are flush, and clamp the pieces together. Cut along the slope lines with a circular saw and straight-edge guide, cutting through both panels at once.
centerline on the panel, and mark it 12″ up from the bottom edge. Use a homemade compass to draw a 6″-radius arch that ends at the two side-line marks and intersects the centerline mark.Drill two ¹⁄2″ starter holes just inside where the vertical lines meet the arc. Be sure to drill in the waste area, where the dog door is being removed, and use a backerboard to prevent tearout on the
underside. Use a jigsaw to carefully cut along the waste side of your lines. File and/or sand the cut edges.
4. Cut the sides.Lay out the cuts for the side panels, following the cutting diagram and detail drawing of the roof and side angles. Again, you can make one long rip cut–this time at 24″–and then come back and make the crosscuts.
The top edges of the sides are cut at 25 degrees to follow the roof slope. Make these bevel cuts with a circular saw or table saw. Cut one side panel at 13″, measuring from the square edge to the long
point (toe) of the bevel cut. Then, using the beveled edge on the leftover piece as the top, cut the second side piece at 13″, making a square (90-degree) cut to create the bottom edge.
5. Cut the roof pieces.The two roof panels get a 40-degree bevel at the top and a 25-degree bevel at the bottom. Make the 40-degree cut first to create the top bevels for both pieces, then cut the bottom edges at 25 degrees. The two bevels on each piece should point in opposite directions, with the overall width (from long point to long point) measuring 1¹¹⁄16″.
6. Mill the dadoes.All the house parts fit together with ¹⁄2″-wide, ¹⁄4″-deep dadoes (grooves) routed into the back, front, side, and roof panels, as shown in the cutting diagram. Using a router and ¹⁄2″ straight bit, make a test cut in a scrap piece of material to confirm that the dadoes will accommodate the thickness of the plywood. The dadoes should be approximately ¹⁄32 to ¹⁄16″ wider than the plywood to allow for the added thickness of the paint. All of the dadoes are ¹⁄2″ from the nearest parallel edge and on the interior faces of the panels only.
Set up each cut with a straightedge guide, and mill the dado in multiple passes to prevent undue wear on your bit. Begin by routing on the interior, lower portion of the front, back, and side panels; these
dadoes will receive the edges of the bottom panel. Then rout the dadoes near the interior ends of the side and roof panels. 7.Test-fit the structure.
Preassemble the house to make sure everything fits properly and to prepare for step 8. First slide the bottom panel into the dadoes of the front and back panels. You may want to give a slight roundover
to the mating edges of the bottom, front, and back panels to facilitate assembly, using a file or sandpaper. Next, fit the sides into place, and gently clamp the front, back, and sides together, making sure that the pieces bottom out in the dadoes. Finally, fit the roof pieces into place.
side and bottom edges of the side panels (the holes will be centered on the edges of the front and back panels), spacing them evenly, as shown in the diagram. At each location, drill a countersunk pilot hole through the side panel and into the edge of the mating panel.
9. Install the inserts.
Disassemble the house. At each pilot hole in the front, back, and bottom panels, use the drill and a ³⁄16″ bit to bore a hole that’s slightly deeper than the exposed end of the machine screw when inserted into the side-panel pilot holes.
Apply a small amount of epoxy to the outside of each threaded insert, and carefully drive it into a ³⁄16″ hole with a hammer, making sure it goes in straight. Be careful not to get epoxy on the threads
inside the inserts. (It’s a good idea to buy an extra insert and test it in a scrap piece of plywood stock first to make sure it fits properly.)
10. Mill the panel edges.
Using a router and ¹⁄4″ roundover bit, rout all exposed edges of the front, back, and side panels. Do not round over any of the beveled edges or any square edges that will be held in a dado.
does and any exposed areas that will be painted. Apply several coats of spray-on lacquer, as directed by the manufacturer, to the interior faces and the panel edges. Allow each coat to dry. You may need to sand between coats with 400-grit sandpaper or steel wool to achieve a smooth finish.After finishing the interior, flip the panels over, and tape off all areas that won’t get paint, including the edges. Apply the first coat of magnetic paint, using a paint roller. Add more layers until you
have the desired amount of magnetism. The more coats you apply, the more magnetic the surface will be; however, be sure not to add so many coats that the material will be too thick to fit in the da-
does. Roll on one or two exterior topcoats in the color of your choice. Let the paint dry, and carefully peel off the tape.
12. Assemble the structure.
Assemble the structure as before. Set machine screws into the countersunk holes and tighten them in the threaded inserts, using an Allen wrench. Set the roof panels into place; these are not fas-
13. Accessorize.Decorate your doggie dwelling with magnets!